In ancient times, Memphis was the capital of Egypt. Later, Alexandria, a Mediterranean city, became the capital under the Byzantines and Sassanians. During the caliphate of Umar (RA), when Egypt came under Muslim rule, Alexandria, being a coastal city, was considered vulnerable, and Fustat became the capital. After the Fatimid conquest, Cairo was founded near Fustat and eventually became the new capital, eclipsing its predecessor. Today, Cairo’s expansive cityscape incorporates the ancient city of Fustat.
In the heart of Fustat stands the majestic Amr ibn al-As Mosque, a landmark of Islamic architecture. Built in 641 CE, shortly after the Companions of the Prophet (PBUH) conquered Egypt, this historic mosque honors the revered commander Amr ibn al-As (RA), who led the Muslim forces to victory. This mosque holds the distinction of being the continent’s first. During the Fatimid vizier’s defensive against the Crusaders, Fustat city was set ablaze, and this mosque also fell victim to the inferno. Salahuddin Ayyubi, having liberated Egypt from Fatimid rule, restored this iconic mosque to its former glory in 1179 CE. Despite undergoing numerous restorations across the centuries, which have altered its original structure, the mosque continues to radiate grandeur to this day.
I was fortunate to pray Jumu’ah in this historic mosque. The blend of its historic significance and majestic design evoked an overwhelming sense of joy and awe.
Located in Cairo, al-Jami al-Azhar (Al-Azhar Mosque) is a revered historical site, constructed by the Fatimids in 972 CE, following their entry into Egypt three years prior. Al-Azhar University, affiliated with the mosque, is one of the oldest and most prestigious Islamic educational institutions globally. Originally founded as a Shia Ismaili institution, it was reclaimed by Sunni Muslims after Sultan Saladin Ayyubi liberated Egypt from Fatimid rule.
Al-Azhar, an esteemed institution in the Islamic world, embodies Egypt’s pride. Here, we had the privilege of offering Dhuhr and Asr prayers. Amidst the afternoon tranquility, a respected Sheikh conducted an Islamic class, as men and women sat in distinct groups, fully engrossed in the sacred lessons.
One of the four major schools of Islamic jurisprudence is the Shafi’i school, founded by Imam Al-Shafi’i (RA). In 813 CE, Imam Al-Shafi’i traveled to Egypt, where he taught at the Amr ibn al-As Mosque. He passed away six years later and was buried in the Al-Qarafa district. Al-Qarafa is a series of vast Islamic-era necropolises and cemeteries in Cairo, Egypt. It is included in the UNESCO World Heritage Site of “Historic Cairo”.
Sultan Saladin Ayyubi established a sunni madrasa adjacent to Imam Al-Shafi’i’s mausoleum during his reign. Later, his nephew Sultan Al-Kamil, son of Saifuddin Abu Bakr, built a mausoleum for his mother adjacent to Imam Al-Shafi’i’s tomb during his reign. He also constructed a building and dome encompassing the entire area. Following Al-Kamil’s passing, his mausoleum was constructed there, and now the three mausoleums lie side by side under the same roof. The building is opened for visitors to view, and subsequently closed after their visit.
Within the enclosure surrounding Imam Al-Shafi’i’s mausoleum, visitors’ offerings, including cash and supplication notes, were strewn about. Outside the building, a plaque displayed a profound quote from Imam Al-Shafi’i:
I love the virtuous
And I am not one of them
Hoping they may intercede for me with God
Interestingly, the inscription often goes unnoticed by numerous visitors.
During Sultan Najmuddin as-Salih’s reign in Egypt, King Louis IX of France led the Seventh Crusade against the region. Recall that Sultan Al-Kamil, whose tomb lies beside Imam Al-Shafi’i’s mausoleum, was the father of Najmuddin as-Salih. The Crusaders captured the port city of Damietta. As the Crusaders advanced toward Cairo, Sultan Najmuddin al-Salih Ayyub, suddenly died in the capital.
Following Sultan al-Salih Ayyub’s unexpected demise, his wife Shajar al-Durr swiftly took control, concealing his death to maintain stability. She discreetly placed his body in a Nile River island tent, spreading word of his illness. Joining forces with Mamluk commander Aybak, Shajar al-Durr rallied the troops, securing a crucial victory against the Crusaders in the Seventh Crusade. She’s known for capturing France’s King Louis IX during that Crusade, and later becoming the Sultana of Egypt. This remarkable woman rose from being a slave and mistress to Sultan al-Salih Najm al-Din Ayyub to becoming the leader of Egypt. Her leadership marked the end of the Ayyubid dynasty and the beginning of the Mamluk Sultanate, a significant turning point in Egyptian history.
The information about Shajar al-Durr was entirely new to Mustafa, the tour guide. I realized that the Egyptian Tourism Center had largely overlooked those histories. Later Mustafa discovered Shajar al-Durr’s mausoleum and took me there.
The Al-Ashraaf street was lined with mausoleums of prominent figures. Hidden behind iron bars, without any signage or information, and just a few steps from the tomb of Muhammad Ibn Sirin (RA), lay the humble mausoleum of Sultan Shajar al-Durr. However, she found a spot in the map of Al-Ashraaf street.
Nooruddin






